Italian Vogue is celebrating black beauty in July.
Or so they say.
Whilst many across the country felt joy at the news, I was still questioning their decision.
According to Vogue's editor, Franca Sozzani, her decision is based on the discrimination that black models face within the fashion industry (as well as the whole Obama phenomenon).
Though I cannot speak for everyone, I have never been in denial of the beauty that exists within my race. I do not need a book, a magazine, or anyone else to tell me what I see every day: in my family, in friends and in black women across the globe.
So I question the need for such a grand display from those who are usually hell bent on making the aesthetics of the black woman appear grotesque, to the rest of the world. For some this moment has been a long time coming, whereas I cannot help but feel a sense of déjà vu. Is it just me or does this reek of the Oscars black out: Denzel, Sydney, Halle anyone?
Is this July issue seriously going to change anything? I doubt it. The fact that Sozzani is reported as having said this will be ‘the worse selling issue’ is not dampening my reservations.
By making a standalone issue the highlight of the debate, ironically takes away from the wider discussion. This should be about a racist institution that makes millions every year from the same women it rejects. This should be about a racist institution that has been allowed to perpetuate its racism without being severely challenged and taken to task. Instead, this is about one magazine doing one good deed for the year, and yet black women are not a charity case. It is not just about the models either, what about the racism amongst the designers, fashion buyers and editors of these fashion magazines?
If it continues to be about the one issue, will this mean fashion no longer has to dole out another pity issue for, oh let’s say, another forty years? If ever again. Maybe I am being a bit too cynical - but can you blame me? This is what the Football Association does when there are cries against racism – they dole out fines that can easily be paid by the clubs and everybody moves on. This is what the (previously mentioned) Oscars did when there were murmurs about the lack of black actors and actresses winning the accolade – they doled out three for the price of one. So now it is the turn of the fashion industry.
Tell me, once the month is out and the sales figures are in, which point will be proven: that black is truly beautiful or that black girls ‘do not sell’?
© Rachelle Hull, 2008
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3 comments:
i don't think you are being too cynical. this is clearly an 'experiment' on the part of the magazine.
what they're really trying to figure out, is whether or not black faces can sell more magazines.
I have to say that I agree with you Rachelle.
Initially, when I heard about this 'campaign' I was intrigued, and wanted to find out more about why Vogue were going to have an all Black edition. Having read information from all manner of sources I am not convinced that this is about Black models in the slightest. This, to me, feels like charity; like a grand experiment at the expense of Black women. We are being told by the same Fashion bodies that have insinuated time and time again that we're not the 'in thing' that suddenly, we're beautiful in their eyes... PURLEZE! Give me a break! It's highly insulting and the biggest form of trophyism that I've ever witnessed in my life (aside from the Oscar debacle that you mentioned in your article).
In addition, what has really jarred me about this whole façade, is the fact that I have been absolutely bombarded by email messages and texts from more Black people (male and female) on this one subject than I ever received about the Jena 6, Black children killing one another in London and the rest of the UK or any other 'issue' that affects us as a people. Why is everyone so quick to jump on the bandwagon about something so obviously and carefully orchestrated?
I will not buy this issue of Vogue - namely because I disagree with this segregated approach that they have taken, also because this is quite clearly a grand publicity and PR stunt and finally, because I do not speak or read Italian!! An Italian edition of a magazine is of no use to me - while the publication is mainly full of photo's, I'd like to be able to read the articles included, and since that's not an option, those three reasons are enough for me to pass.
Keep on writing R, you're doing us a great service and you're words are always informative and enjoyable.
Bless, Comfort
I agree with you, it's just like black history month. The fact that people feel the need to separate black fashion or history means we're not going to move forward black history is our history irrespective of race/gender......
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